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Rick Owens remains one of the
most daring and influential fashion designers working today. This new book of
photographs describes an exceptionally fertile and transformational period in
his career, one that saw him experiment with new shapes, the application of
new materials, and an unprecedented use of color.
Lavishly documenting men's and women's collections and featuring
Owens's continuing collaboration with the photographer Danielle Levitt, this
book is an unabashed love letter to one of the most devoted followings in
contemporary fashion. Picking up where Rizzoli's previous monograph
on Owens's work left off, looks from his critically lauded homage to the
rock-and-roll designer Larry Legaspi set a frenzied visual pace that never
lets up--right through the pandemic, when Owens memorably staged shows on the
Lido di Venezia. Here, the continued evolution of nearly three
decades of Owens's "grunge-meets-glamour" worldview is seen close
up. Grace and grit are paired with an obsession with structural
transformation and movement, where diaphanous, flowing shapes contrast with
sharp objects. This formal invention is matched by a mania for new and exotic
materials. The use of translucent bovine leathers, brightly dyed snakeskin,
and the hide of the pirarucu, a massive Amazonian fish, are applied to old
and new icons of the brand. Color is now firmly part of the Owens
legendarium, and a profligacy of pink, orange, blue, green, and iridescent
hues now vie with trademark black, oxblood, and dust that have been part of
the palette since the inception of the brand. Owens's newest
provocations, grounded by the portraiture of Danielle Levitt, achieves a
sublime unity in this essential volume.
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